Besides Los Cabos, the State of Baja California Sur - the peninsula's southern half -
is blessed with two lesser known but virtuous vacation destinations: Loreto and La Paz.
Though somewhat underdeveloped compared to Mexico's mainland beach resorts, La Paz and
Loreto are in a class by themselves for visitors wanting desert-by-the sea natural beauty
and peaceful, unspoiled surroundings.
Until 1973 the secrets of Baja Sur were known to only the heartiest of travelers, since
surface transportation was primitive. Now the peninsula is easily traversed via a 1,050
mile two-lane highway. And direct international air service to both La Paz and Loreto
makes getting here a breeze.
Visitors to this region experience a special closeness to nature and the great
outdoors. There is breathtaking natural beauty at every turn. Lunar desert landscape,
unending cactus gardens, jagged mountains, crystal water, and sultry, secluded beaches
make this region one of the purest natural environments in the Western Hemisphere. The
area's climate is excruciatingly dry, with sunny days and cool evenings, and low humidity
year 'round.
Loreto and La Paz are both on the eastern side of the Baja Peninsula and face the
ecologically rich Sea of Cortés. They basically share the same nature-bound attractions
(fishing, diving, wildlife viewing, sailing and watersports), and ends-of-the-earth desert
setting. However the cities are vastly different in size and atmosphere.
Loreto is an unassuming sleepy fishing village with a colorful past. It was here
that in 1697 Jesuit priest/explorer Juan Maria Salvatierra established California's first
settlement. Loreto served as capital to "Alta" and "Baja" California
for 133 years during Spain's colonial rule of Mexico. Father Junípero Serra set forth
from Loreto in 1769 on a trek northward to establish a chain of 17 now-famous California
missions.
Loreto's history as a resort began in the 1970's when a stretch of sand south of town
(called Nopoló) was targeted by the government to become one of Mexico's premier beach
destinations (along with Cancún, Ixtapa, Los Cabos and Huatulco). However, following an
initial surge of development and promotion, the resort has languished for lack of air
service and investment. La Paz-based Aero California came to the rescue in 1989 with
non-stops from LAX.
Loreto's scenic beauty is one of its main attributes. Five deserted islands seem to
almost float on the horizon while the towering Sierra La Giganta mountains rear up behind
the village. Its beaches are somewhat rocky but have smooth as glass crystalline water
ideal for sailing, waterskiing and windsurfing.
World class sport fishing remains the city's major draw, particularly for yellowtail
(best in the spring) and dorado, marlin and sailfish (best in the summer). It is also home
to one of Mexico's finest tennis centers, and now sports a fine 18-hole seaside golf
course.
La Paz ("peace" in Spanish), is the state's capital, and the largest
city south of Tijuana on the Baja Peninsula. It lies on a deep inlet off the Sea of
Cortés. Despite its size (population 175,000) and position as the region's commercial and
political center, La Paz is a tranquil, easy to love port. It has preserved a sort of
"old Baja" atmosphere that makes you think little has changed here for decades.
Even though Hernán Cortés himself visited La Paz in 1535, there was no permanent
settlement here until 1811. In 1829 it became California's capital when Loreto was leveled
by a hurricane.
Surrounded by barren desert, the city is set amid ancient laurel trees and coconut and
date palms. Its waterfront promenade is one of Mexico's prettiest. A few blocks inland is
the city's main square, the Jardín Velasco with its pink quartz gazebo, tile walkways and
19th century cathedral.
Once a major center for the pearling industry, today La Paz draws sport fishermen,
divers, and water enthusiasts to its sunny beaches, calm bays and ecologically pure
offshore islands. Within 15 miles of town are several stunning beaches on gleaming white
sand and clear, almost turquoise water. Several deserted islands with unique natural
habitats can be visited via excellent guided boat excursions.
While limited, the shopping, dining and nightlife scene in La Paz is much improved over
that of Loreto. There are also some unexpectedly fine lodging establishments, making it a
comfortable and overall well-appointed destination.
